When people ask us for suggestions for what to see in Umbria, we usually give them answers in pairs. What two things can you do in one day?
Montefalco and Bevagna, one an historic hill town, the other an ancient settlement down below, both wine centers. From La Casetta Rosa, go to Montefalco in half an hour. Wander this beautiful preserved medieval walled town. Visit the linen shops, the wine shops, and the incredibly frescoed San Francesco church, which is a national museum. Stop for lunch in the main piazza or one of the many restaurants lining the street down to the crenellated city gate. After lunch drive down to Bevagna, where you will find the fountain where St. Francis (San Francesco) talked to the birds. There is a wonderful small museum and restored Roman baths filled with mosaics. Of course, there are wine shops and restaurants if you’d like to stay for dinner. If you’d like to be back at the villa by sunset, give yourself about an hour, particularly if the sunflowers are blooming and you want to stop along the way to take photos.
Another pair of towns to do in a day: Orvieto and Todi. Drive to Orvieto in an hour, along Lake Corbara. (See our parking tips for where to park). A must is the duomo on the main piazza, one of the most beautiful in Europe. The streets are lined with shops, restaurants and places for coffee and gelato. The Pozzo di San Patrizio is a fascinating place to explore, with its double helix staircase, used for bringing water up to Orvieto atop its tufa mesa. In the afternoon, it’s time for Todi with its impressive architecture. Wander around and stop for refreshments at an outdoor cafe in the main piazza, which is lined with grand palaces.
We like putting together Assisi plus Spello, Trevi or Foligno. Spend the morning at the duomo of San Francesco and then wander the cobbled streets, stopping at other historic churches. Spello and Trevi are hilltowns a little less touristy than Assisi and both have nice options for lunch and wandering. Trevi has a good olive oil museum and Spello has art studios. Foligno is centered in the fertile valley below the others, a bustling market town where St. Francis sold his horse to finance his ministry. There is a great selection of boutiques and the main piazza has several options for lunch or an aperitivo.
Is Perugia on your list? Stop off in Deruta on the way and marvel at the dozens of majolica ceramics studios. Deruta ceramics have been around for more than 500 years and are as beautiful today as they were then. There is a wonderful ceramics museum in the city center. Then, onward to Perugia, the capital of Umbria and a city with a long history. Take the Mini Metro up to the center and stroll Corso Vanucchi, the main street. The excellent National Museum is at the end with the stunning round fountain. Along the way there are shops and restaurants.
We had the opportunity to use this Umbrian home as our 1 week respite from our super busy Italian vacation. Upon arrival, we were very pleased at the condition of the house, its amenities, and its location. We were able to enjoy several day trips to local towns, and fixed several dinners in the Italian grill and in the kitchen. We really enjoyed living more like “locals” and embracing all that Umbria has to offer. This is a beautiful, well kept, immaculate home that made our trip to Umbria very special. There is plenty to do in the region, and local grocery stores, markets, restaurants and gas stations. My husband enjoyed the house so much, he’s looking at locations nearby to purchase one of our own! We would rent this lovely home again in a heartbeat! Stayed June 2015 *****
Recommended for: Sightseeing, Girls Getaway, Adventure Seekers, Age 55+, Romantic Getaway, Families with Teenagers
My family spent the most perfect July last summer at La Casetta Rosa. We couldn’t get enough of the views and the sunsets were glorious. The location is perfect for day trips to all the hill towns in Umbria and offers a sense of seclusion and at the same time access to everything you need from groceries to easy access to public transportation. The house was complete with everything we needed to prepare meals. The pool was perfect for relaxing. Sharri was so helpful and provided lots of local knowledge to help us fit right into the Umbrian life. We hope to come back to Umbria again and will look forward to another stay at La Casetta Rosa. Stayed July 2013 *****
Recommended for: Girls Getaway, Sightseeing, Families with Teenagers
Une maison parfaite ou nous avons passé d excellentes vacances. Les propriétaires sont très accueillants, tout particulièrement la propriétaire qui gère avec soin la maison. Des cadeaux nous attendaient : huile d olive du jardin, confiture maison, délicieux vin de la région etc Une importante documentation est fournie pour nous guider dans les visites. La décoration mêle la beauté de la céramique ombrienne, aux objets chinés ou rapportés des voyages lointains. Tout est propre et plaisir pour le regard. La vue sur les collines ombriennes est splendide, la possibilité de manger dans différents lieux de la maison est très agréable ( sous la pergola, coin barbecue etc ). Une petite table en contrebas, face à la vue, est idéale pour la méditation. La vaisselle est abondante et tout fonctionne. Les enfants ont pu regarder des DVD , jouer dans la piscine . Les villes et villages alentours sont très riches à tout point de vue : artistique , gastronomique, et situés a 30/45 minutes de la maison. De multiples villages médiévaux sont beaucoup plus proches si vous ne souhaitez pas faire de route. Les magasins alimentaires sont à proximité. Bref, nous recommandons cette maison les yeux fermés. Tout y a été pensé pour le confort , le repos, et le plaisir de ses habitants. A refaire +++ Stayed July 2014 *****
Our group of six travelers spent perhaps the best week of our lives at this amazing villa in Umbria. The house was immaculate and our hostess was waiting to greet us when we arrived. Our first evening we sat under the olive trees at the edge of the backyard and watched the sun set across a beautiful valley. The following morning we watched hot-air balloons float down the valley as we ate breakfast under those same olive trees. Each day we drove to nearby hill towns to experience Umbria on our own terms. The hill towns of Assisi, Spello, Spoleto, Montefalco, Deruta, Todi, Castiglione de Lago, and others are all within an easy drive of the villa. It was a joy to cool our selves in the small pool while we sipped wine and snacked on cheese following our daily outings. This was our third trip to Italy and our stay at La Casetta Rosa was our very best experience ever. This place was heaven! Stayed July 2011 *****
Recommended for: Sightseeing, Romantic Getaway
Just a quick note of appreciation and to tell you what a wonderful time we had at your house. We will definitely be back!!!! Just sitting on the terrace w/wine was so relaxing. You made is quite easy with a baby (I know his parents are so appreciative of every effort made.) Stayed August 2010 *****
Recommended for: Adventure Seekers, Sightseeing, Families with Young Children
La Casetta Rosa embraced us (2 getting-on-up-there couples plus occasional overnight guests) with style and luxury during a splendid fortnight. Even during a couple of quite warm days in June, its design, fans and breezes kept us singing its praises. The only complaint from our number was that we ventured out so much to interesting nearby places that we spent too little time sitting and reading in the several delightful venues of the villa that were perfect for relaxing. The remedy: stay longer than 2 weeks and eat more often at Leone in Collazzone. A good map (Umbria & Marches) was invaluable, as was a manual shift auto. Don’t miss the Tuesday a.m. vegetable and fish market in San Terenziano. We are embarrassed to have accepted so much cheerful, “above-and-beyond” help from the owners that added immeasurable texture to our experience. Stayed June 2010 *****
We lived in Naples for two years in 2001 and 2002. This past summer we spent a month touring around Italy, returning to our favorite places and visiting the spots we missed when we lived there. La Casetta Rosa was simply wonderful. It was plenty spacious enough for our family of five, the view was breathtaking, the town is quaint, and we were able to get to Pisa, Florence, Assisi, Deruta and a nearby medieval town which happened to be having a medieval fair – all easy day trips from the house. Be aware that this is a typical Italian home, it doesn’t have everything you expect at home in the States but it’s perfectly suitable as part of an Italian experience. My husband was training for a marathon while we were there and he said the vistas while he as out running were some of the most beautiful he’s ever seen. We loved it, we’re hoping our friends are able to visit there this summer and we really hope to be back ourselves! Highly recommended!! Stayed June 2009 *****
Recommended for: Age 55+, Adventure Seekers, Girls Getaway, Sightseeing, Families with Teenagers, Families with Young Children, Romantic Getaway
“Sip the wine and splash the oil.”
Pliny the Elder (Rome, 1st C AD).
Good old Pliny, always there with a pithy comment.
The third week of November is the highlight of our year, when ten friends from four countries arrive on Via Palombaro to spend a week picking our olives, drinking the local garage wine, and catching up on what has happened in the U.S., the Netherlands, Namibia, England and Italy over the last year. Read more
The GP’s office in the village is the center of the universe. Here, anyone who takes a prescription medicine provided by the national health is required to see the doctor once a month to get a refill. In this way, the medical system ensures that any obvious problems can be identified quickly. The visiting dottoressa comes for an hour or two weekdays (except, mysteriously, not the day before a public holiday) and those who see her regularly memorize the schedule, which is different depending on the day of the week.
Though some of us may try to deny it, research shows we all come to a Italy for the food. (This is not to say we aren’t appreciative of the amazing art). Since cuisine is an integral part of a region’s culture, no one should be ashamed when they dig into a steaming plate of pasta with truffles or porcini mushrooms. After all, this is locavore stuff, food that is sourced within a local area. We are respecting Mother Nature and the seasons. When a trattoria won’t do and a meal in a “white tablecloth” restaurant is the order of the day (birthday, anniversary, or simply the love of discovering great places), there are dozens of fine dining establishments to choose from in Umbria.
We promised to do a post about parking in various Umbrian towns because so many visitors come by car and then don’t know where to park. We don’t know everything and we are ready for input from anyone who has a better idea to offer. For now, here are some hints.
It’s time for an update: Umbrian restaurants that we know and love. This is by no means a complete list and we welcome suggestions. (Don’t forget to look on a previous post for some of our favorite outdoor eating spots). NOTE: We’ve included the closing day when we know it. We’ve also included a phone number. As for website links, the problem is that some places don’t have webpages and those that do often don’t translate into English. We hope we’ve given you enough info so that you can google.
On my walks in the countryside I keep passing wheat fields so green I want to roll around in them. Eventually those grains will ripen, be harvested and milled, and metamorphosize into the piece of saltless local bread on the table next to my plate. The lack of taste discourages mindless nibbles while we wait for the antipasto, but it’s terrific for a scarpetta (“little shoe” of bread) to soak up the not-to-be-abandoned olive oil or juices from my dish or for bruschetta with new olive oil. Read more
